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Garden Centers Club

Officers and Board - 2013
GARDEN CENTERS CLUB
LAGUNA WOODS VILLAGE

Officers and Board 2013

[click the email link to send them comments or questions]
Co-Presidents – Jeanie Roland; Kitty Platt
bjroland@roadrunner.com; kittyplatt@hotmail.com

Vice President/Membership – Kathy Gaskins
kathy3501@gmail.com 

Treasurer – Ronnie Sellards
ronniesellards@gmail.com

Secretary – Linda Graham
genegraham@fea.net

Immediate Past President - Howard Feichtmann
Community Relations -Howard Feichtmann
Newsletter – John Huber
jchuber@ix.netcom.com
 Social Activities – Phyllis Gray; Lettie Slusiewicz and Leslie Burgon
pjgray@fea.net
; rslusiewicz@yahoo.commytiger8@aol.com

Publicity - Pat Hedrick 

pbhgrama@comline.com 
 

 Historian - Elaine Morgado
Program Chair – vacant

Webmaster - Bob Sellards
bobells04@yahoo.com  


Spring 2013 Newsletter

SPRING 2013 NEWSLETTER



GCC Newsletter-February 2012


FEBRUARY 2012 NEWSLETTER



GCC Newsletter-May 2011

MAY 2011 NEWSLETTER



GCC Newsletter-September 2011


SEPTEMBER 2011 NEWSLETTER



President's Letter January 2012

Howard Feichtmann



January 2012
Presidents Message
It has been 9 years since the Garden Centers Club was formed. At that time, GRF planned to move both Garden Centers to the top of the hill at Santa Maria and Moulton. Garden Center 1 would be senior housing as designated by the City of Laguna Woods and Garden Center 2 and the Horse Stables were to be sold for commercial use. Of course, that did not happen and in the ensuing years, more and more residents wanted garden plots. In the last few years, GRF did extensive planning for all their undeveloped properties. At the present time the City is studying a plan for Garden Center 3 as requested by GRF. The environmental study should be completed this year and if approved, GRF would be able to develop a new garden area.. This area is across Campo Verde from Garden Center 2. If GRF is able to construct a new garden, funds must be available and that remains as an obstacle. 
 
In the meantime, we have close to 200 residents that are on the waiting list for a vegetable plot. It would be helpful if our present gardeners would share a plot with people on the waiting list. However, if you do share a plot, be sure that the Garden Coordinator is aware of this fact and that a indemnity waiver is signed by the new person.
 
We had 106 people at our January meeting. This shows a great interest by our members and it would be a shame if the Club could not continue next year due to a lack of Board Members. Next year, we need a new President, Vice-President and other officers. Get on board now if you have an interest in the Club continuing to function. Contact any Board Members.


President's Letter Fall 2010


 President’s Message, August 2010

It’s August and you’re reaping the benefits of hard work in your gardens. Another month and we will be upgrading our soil for the fall season.  Time goes by so fast.  Christmas is only 4 months away. 

Our Club year is also in the final stages.  We have our next General Meeting on Tuesday, September 28th  - the topic is “All about Composting.”  It also includes worm castings.  Refreshments and our free raffle are planned.  October 26th will be an October Fest/Pot Luck Luncheon and we’ll have a guest speaker. Then it’s our Holiday Dinner with entertainment and dinner catered by Jolanda – Tuesday, November 30th.

So then it’s on to 2011.  What topics should be planned for January and March?  Do we still want our BBQ in May and June?  Should we plan a bus trip?  These questions and many more need to be discussed and decisions made by your Board.  Who will serve on our Board next year?  I know of at least two Board members who will not be on the Board next year.  We have been rotating the same Club Presidents for 5 years.  Our Club membership is over 250 gardeners and our Board is composed of 10 people. Surely, it is time for some new people to be on the Board, or if you want the Club to just fold and disappear, let us know.  That’s always an alternative.

Now, on a different subject, we really have had a great year so far.  In January, we had Gary Matsuoka, Laguna Hills Nursery, who talked on Fruit Tree Pruning.  In March, Cathy Moine from Green Thumb talked on Tips and Tricks for a Healthy Garden.  About 75 people from Garden Center #1 attended their BBQ in May and 125 members and guests came for the Garden Center #2 BBQ in June.  Tom Siviglia, PCM Security Coordinator spoke at both BBQ.  In our annual Veggie Collection Drive on July 12th and July 26th, we collected 668 lbs of produce and non-perishables for South County Outreach; this is a new record

The Board has worked well as a team, especially on the BBQ and I am very proud of them.  Also, there were many dedicated people who assisted in the setups and food handling.  What you don’t ever see is the kitchen cleanup crew after the potluck and BBQ.  They all deserve our very big thanks!

The Board meets at 10:00 AM the second Thursday of each month at the Historical Society Boardroom.  All members are welcome.



President's Letter Spring 2010

President’s Message

 

In the Fall of 2003, about 10 gardeners met and discussed the formation of the Garden Centers Club.  Subsequently, the Constitution and By-Laws were published and we got permission from the Recreation Department to form the Club. 

At that time, there was considerable discussion by GRF and the Housing Mutuals about the sale of GRF land that comprised our gardens and the equestrian center.  Garden Center 1 land would be senior housing, if sold.  Garden Center 2 and the equestrian center would be combined for sale as a unit and would be for commercial use.  There were several variations on the uses of these properties. However, your Club was formed to make sure that the gardeners would have a voice on these deliberations. 

 

At that time, there were no waiting lists for garden plots.  I started with two plots in Garden Center 1 Annex.  Within two years the gardeners in three adjoining plots gave up their plots and I took them over.  There were many vacant plots just begging for a gardener’s tender care; there were also fruit & citrus tree plots.  Incidentally, last year I gave up two plots due to the large waiting list.

 

Just because we have not heard any talk about land sales recently, Laguna Woods Village still has vacant land and decisions will be made in the future that may involve our gardens.  A strong Garden Centers Club will our “collective voice” and an advantage if this discussion begins again in earnest! 

 

What a difference now in resident's interest in Garden Centers.  In January 2010, the waiting list for veggie plots was 116 for Garden Center 1 and 77 for garden center 2.  For tree plots, there were 35 on the waiting list for Garden Center 1 and 44 for Garden Center 2. 

 

The long range planning group of GRF is aware of the need for Garden Center 3.   The Garden Centers Club and the GRF Garden Centers Advisory Group will be your advocates in any future planning and/or changes in the gardens. 

 

Basically, 2010 should be a great year for gardening.  Even the widening of Moulton Pkwy. that affects our gardens is again delayed.  Please support our Club functions and meetings and have a great gardening year!

 

Howard Feichtmann

GCC President, 2010



2012 Memberhip Application & Renewal

Dear Fellow Gardener and non-gardening LWV residents:

 

Be a Garden Centers Club member in 2012.  Our activities provide the only forum for gardeners to meet, discuss problems, socialize and – through our meetings and expert guest speakers - help each other increase gardening knowledge or improve skills. 

 Please Consider why you should become or remain a member:

  • Informative gardening programs at CH #7 featuring speakers and presentations, often with luncheons.
  • Meet with your fellow gardeners and exchange useful information.
  •  Free BBQ - for members - in May or June. 
  •  Newsletters written with you in mind; full of information you can use!
  •  An Advisory Group – GCAG.  This group manages formal communication to GRF of our goals, concerns and issues, and interests.

 

Please Join or Renew.  Detach and Send this application and your check. 

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GARDEN CENTERS CLUB

2012 Membership Application

New______Renewal______

 

Name(s):________________________________________________________

 

E-mail:______________________

 

Address: _______________________________________________________

 

Telephone: (949) _______________________  
 
Garden Center 1 or 2  ______

    [ #1 - by the Golf Course, along Moulton;  #2 - on Campo Verdi, behind  Stables]

 

Plot # ____________

 

Annual Dues: January 1 to December 31 -  Individual -  $15.00 Family - $20.00

 

Make your check payable to: Garden Centers Club, and send to -

              Ronnie Sellards

    152 Avenida Majorca, Unit C

       Laguna Woods, CA  92637

                                       



Garden Centers Club - FAQs

Garden Centers Club

-FACT SHEET and FAQs-


Q – How many gardens are there?  -how big are the gardens?

A –The Garden Centers are GRF property and presently over 8 acres in size. There are 868 vegetable gardens in two Centers.  A veggie plot is 10’ X 20’. In addition there are over 250 fruit and citrus tree plots.

 

Q - Where are the Garden Centers? 

A – GC 1 is to the right of Moulton, North of El Toro near the intersection of Santa Maria Rd., adjacent to the golf course.  GC 2 is to the right of Moulton, South of El Toro just off Campo Verde Drive., just opposite the Von’s shopping Center. The PCM Garden Coordinator’s office (Mike Tucholski) is on this site – Tel. 597-4322.

 

Q – What is the cost?

A – Veggie plots rent for $26.00 annually; a tree plot is $12.00; a shade house bench is $8.00

 

Q – How does one obtain a garden plot?

A - You should contact PCM’s Garden Centers Coordinator. He is Mike Tucholski; he can be reached at: 597-4322; Cell # 949-633-3394

 

Q - What can people grow in their garden?

A – Orange County gardeners are very fortunate; we can grow a wide range of veggies, fruits and citrus crops, year around.  Local nurseries, fellow gardeners and numerous web sites are a good source of info.

 

Q – Do I have to provide everything that a garden & gardener normally requires?

A – GRF provides gardening tools, carts and wheelbarrows, water and mulch.  Gardeners select and buy their own seedlings, plants, etc.  They may choose to  purchase additional tools or equipment, a hose, etc.

 

Q – Who maintains the Garden Centers?

A - The PCM Garden Centers Coordinator oversees the two Centers.  Each gardener has complete responsibility for establishing, growing and maintaining his/her garden, fences and surrounding pathways.

 

Q – a) What is the GCC all about; b) what do you do; c) why should I become a member; d) do I have to become a member to get a garden???

A – a, b, c) the primary benefits are listed at the top of our application form; d) any LW Village resident can obtain a garden plot…Club membership isn’t required by GRF.

 

Q - Where can I get help or advice? – I’m not very experienced and have only done a little gardening in recent years.

A – See next question ~

 

Q – Does the Club have a Web Site?  -a Newsletter? –a list to enable me to contact experts and Master Gardeners?

A – 1) Yes; www.lagunawoodsvillage.com; [see Clubs &  Club Web Pages – Clubs: A to J]; 2) Yes – 3 times per year; 3) a large number of references are on the Club web page -“Information and News For You”

 

Q – What are the dues?  Where do I get an application? When/Where do you meet?

A – application forms can be found in boxes in both Garden Centers; you can also call Membership Chairperson Bob Sellards and it will be emailed to you. Dues: $15./$20.  We meet 7 times a year at CH 7 

 

Q – When is your next meeting?  - are guests allowed to attend?

A – Our Annual FREE BBQ -for Members - is May 25th @ 11:30, CH 7.  Guests are always welcome!



Organic Gardening

Avoiding Chemicals, Poisons and Proper Pest Control


Organic Gardening
 
·       http://www.organicgardening.com/
 
·       http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening.aspx
 
·       http://organicgardening.about.com/
 
·       http://www.organicgardeningguru.com/
 
·       http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFsSlS7IHBg
 
·       http://www.saferbrand.com/
 
The Dirty Dozen

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/need-to-know/health/the-dirty-dozen-and-clean-15-of-produce/616/

Orange County Farmer’s Markets
 
 
 
 
 


Information and News

Tools of Our Trade

Tools of Our Trade

Items below are links to information and resources that you, as a gardener, would likely use.  Many of these sources shown have very helpful/informative streaming videos, downloadable/printable articles, recipes or charts and tables.  Many also offer free electronic Newsletters and printable coupons.

If you don't already have these saved as "Favorites", or "Bookmarks" - now is a great time to do so.  Just click on the link to view the page - click on Favorites, then on Add to Favorites. [same steps for those using Firefox, or other browsers] Now you have a permanent quick-lookup reference.


www.greenthumbinternational.com/

http://www.plantdepot.com/site/

www.armstronggarden.com/

www.rogersgardens.com/inthegarden.asp

www.ocfarmsupply.com/news/9/17/

www.kellogggarden.com/

http://www.scotts.com/smg/brand/whitneyFarms/whitneyFarms.jsp?detailId=600012

www.drearth.com/

www.ebstone.org/ebstone.php

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening.aspx

www.serranocreeksoils.com/

www.squarefootgardening.com/

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2007-11-01/Best-Garden-Seed-Companies.aspx

http://store.tomatofest.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1&Click=5038

http://www.tomatofest.com/tomato-recipes.html

http://www.vegetableseed.net/vegetable-recipes/vegetable-recipes.html

http://www.vegetableseed.net/vegetable-seed-set-contents.html

http://www.halcyon.com/tmend/links.htm

http://www.halcyon.com/tmend/exchanges.htm

http://www.scotts.com/smg/minilandingtemplates/template2/miniLandingTemplate2.jsp?subNavId=600005&navId=300029&parentId=100006www.scotts.com/smg/minilandingtemplates/template2/miniLandingTemplate2.jsp

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/living/2008829989_seeds09m.html

http://www.shelterpub.com/_fitness/_stretching/gardening.html



Orange Country Register Columnist - Cindy McNatt & Others



McNatt's Archived Columns

http://www.ocregister.com/articles/ocregister-http-www-949409-life-article





Get Expert Advice; Ask A Question
QUESTIONS?
 
NEED AN EXPERTS ADVICE?
 
Click on the links below to find relevant and useful gardening information. 
 
 
http://www.uccemg.com/gi01_newsarticles.shtml

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PDF/PESTNOTES/index.html
 
http://www.ocregister.com/articles/ocregister-http-www-949409-life-article
 
http://plantfinder.sunset.com/sunset/plant-home.jsp


Tomatoes Anyone??!!

Growing, Feeding, Care, Recipes


NOTHING BEATS HOME GROWN TOMATOES!

Ask any gardener, young or old, new to gardening or the Old Pro what their most anticipated planting priority is in their garden - you guessed it...about 90% are going to reply enthusiastically -  without hesitation - TOMATOES!

This series of pages and the numerous WWW links will give both seasoned pros and the newer gardener a wealth of information.

Feel free to copy for your gardening binder and make notes about the success, or lack of with not only types of tomatoes, but the preparation, care and feeding you gave your plants this year - and each year.


The information and links below provide for gardeners of all experience levels in our favorite pastime: Growing Tomatoes!  Enjoy ~

 
Tomato Care Sheet
   Grown by California Florida Plant Company
929 Williams Road Salinas, CA 93915
831-754-2767 Steve’s Cell:805-660-8894
http://www.gotomato.com E-mail:majortomato@netzero.net
Exposure: Full Sun. Some varieties will grow in some shade. Ask your sale associate for those varieties.
 
Soil:   In the groundPrepare a hole about twice the size of the container and 1-1/2 times deep. Save half of the excavated soil and mix in the same amount of mulch thoroughly. I use the planting mulch generously, approximately 1 to 1 ratio of soil and mulch. Place tomato in the center of the hole and back fill with soil/mulch mixture.   Pat soil firmly. Make a well about 2 to 3in high and 2 feet in diameter around the tomato plant to help retain excess water.
 
In Containers: I found using soils with 65% Organic material, 15% Peat Moss, 10% Perlite and 10% Pumice have the best results in containers. When planting “indeterminate varieties” I suggest using a container or pot that is a minimum 18” X 18” or about the sized of a 15 gallon can. If you use a smaller container, you may find during the middle to the end of the season your fruit production will suffer due to the roots in the container becoming root-bound. Root-bound makes it difficult for your plant to maintain enough water or fertilizer to grow properly.
 Mostdeterminate varieties will do fine in a 5 gallon container.
 
Trellis: Indeterminate plants can reach as long as 16 feet or more. This means that some sort of support is necessary to keep your vines and tomatoes off the ground.
A 2”x2” stake 8’ or 10’ foot is very effective. A heavy mesh wire cage can be used for years with great success. If you use a wire cage, buy the largest cage available because your tomato plant will grow large. ASK FOR THE TEXAS TOMATO CAGES. They are a bit expensive but only a one time purchase.
Determinate plants grow much smaller. A medium sized wire cage is enough for these plants. Ask your Garden Center Expert as to what size cage to use.
 
Watering: Depending on the weather, young plants in containers should be watered every 4 to 5 days. As these plants mature, watering should be done every other day to every day on hot summer days. Plants in the ground should be deep watered every 7 to 10 days. Check your humidity and temperature and the soil to determine how much water to apply.
Fertilizing: Fertilize with a complete, soluble fertilizer with HUMIC ACIDS. Keep phosphorous levels high. Over fertilizing will produce a large rangy plant and will delay fruiting. Some favorites are Dr Earth's Vegetable Food, E.B. Stone, Whitney Farms, GRO-power products and John and Bob’s soil optimizer. 
DISEASES: Early determinate varieties generally have poor disease resistance; however, disease is not usually a problem until mid-season. Plant disease-resistant varieties for a sustained harvest. Leaf blight diseases such as early blight and alternaria begin to appear about mid-April, and plants are more susceptible once fruit production begins. To reduce disease problems, use resistant or tolerant varieties and use organic sprays. Fusarium wilt (race 1), a disease caused by a soil fungus is common when soil temperatures approach 60 degrees. Fusarium races 1 and 2 are present in southern areas. Where fusarium wilt is present use of resistant varieties is recommended. Currently there is not an organic solution for complete control of Fusarium wilt. Do not plant eggplants, peppers, or potatoes in wilt-infested soil. Avoid planting tomatoes near walnut trees to avoid "walnut wilt". Late blight is more common in inland regions at higher elevations, especially during the spring and fall. A Favorite fungicide is Citrall or Rose Protector.   Blossom-end rot is prevented by ensuring an adequate level of soil calcium, and steady moisture.
PESTS: .Aphids, White flies, mites and Little Green Worms (Loopers) common invade our plants usually in the early summer through late fall. Spray with a fast jet of water or use an organic spray such as Monterey’s Spinosad.
Tomato hornworms can best controlled by just picking them off your plant with a pair of tongs. Hornworms with the white egg cases of parasitic wasps should not be destroyed because the wasps will hatch out and destroy other hornworms in your garden. 

Root-knot nematodes are plant-parasitic nematodes from the genus Meloidogyne. They exist in soil in areas with hot climates or short winters. About 2000 plants are susceptible to infection by root-knot nematodes and they cause approximately 5% of global crop loss. Root-knot nematode larva infect plant roots causing the development of root-knot galls that drain the plant's photosynthate and nutrients. Infection of young plants may be lethal, while infection of mature plants causes decreased yield.
 
Root-knot galls
Root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) are one of the three most economically damaging genera of plant-parasitic nematodes on horticultural and field crops. Root knot nematodes are distributed worldwide and are obligate parasites of the roots of thousands of plant species including monocotyledonous and dicotyledonous herbaceous and woody plants. The genus includes more than 60 species with some species having several races. Four Meloidogyne species (M. javanica, M. arenaria, M. incognita, M. hapla) are major pests worldwide with another seven important on a local basis (Eisenback and Triantaphyllou, 1991). Meloidogyne occur in 23 of 43 crops listed as having plant-parasitic nematodes of major importance, ranging from field crops, through pasture and grasses, to horticultural, ornamental and vegetable crops (Stirling et al, 1992). If root-knot nematodes become established in deep-rooted perennial crops, control is difficult and control options are limited. Vegetable crops grown in warm climates can experience severe losses from root-knot nematodes and are often routinely treated with a chemical nematicide. Root-knot nematode damage results in poor growth, a decline in quality and yield of the crop and reduced resistance to other stresses (e.g. drought, other diseases). A high level of root-knot nematode damage can lead to total crop loss. Nematode damaged roots do not utilise water and fertilisers as effectively, leading to additional losses for the grower.

 
Tomato Hornworm Control

Description: Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.

Likely to be the largest caterpillars you'll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.

Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.

Life Cycle: Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.

Control: Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water. Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps, and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Both Dipel Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (spinosad) are very effective, especially on young caterpillars (larvae). If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with botanical insecticides. Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.

Note: If you have caterpillars that have parasitic wasp cocoons attached to them, don't destroy them! Collect them instead and allow them to eat unwanted or volunteer tomatoes until the wasps hatch inside. Now you've got an army of free, natural predators to work for you.

 
Lady Bugs
Hippodamia convergens
Target pests: Aphids, whitefly, fruitworm, mites

Are you experiencing Lady Bug problems? 

Click on the following link for expanded information:

www.marchbiological.com/index.php#problem
 
Commonly referred to as Lady Bugs these helpful critters are not bugs at all, they are beetles and their correct name is The Ladybird Beetle. There are about 400 different types of Lady Bugs in the Coccinellidae family in North America and about 4,000 species worldwide. The most common beneficial species in North America is the Convergent Lady Beetle.
All Lady Bugs have similar life cycles. Eggs are laid in the spring. When hatched the larvae will feed for several weeks and pupate into adults. The adults feed through the fall, then either lay eggs and die or hibernate over the winter, waking in the spring to feed and lay eggs.
Lady Bugs are the most widely used and best known form of biological pest control. Famous for their control of aphids, Lady Bugs will also consume large numbers of whitefly, mealybugs, scales, mites and many other soft bodied insects as well as bollworm, broccoli worm, cabbage moth and tomato hornworm. Lady Bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in it's lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in garden and greenhouse settings.
One common complaint against the Lady Bug is that once released they will fly off to the neighbors house down the street while aphids have their way with your roses and tomato plants. The truth is that once released a portion will fly off and that once the aphids are consumed another portion will fly off looking for food. But there are a few things that you can do to get your Lady Bugs to stay. First, always release Lady Bugs in the evening, they will not fly at night and are not as active when it's cooler. Another trick is to mix water & regular soda pop (50/50) and spray it on the Lady Bugs just prior to release. The sugar in the soda will cause the Lady Bugs wings to stick together for a few days so they can not fly away. In this time the females should start laying their eggs in your garden, Lady Bugs are very territorial, Lady Bugs that hatch in your garden will call it home. We also offer Bug Blend, a flowering seed mix that will provide both a natural habitat and the pollen and nectar beneficials require to reproduce, and Lady Bug Breakfast a supplemental food source to feed your Lady Bugs when the pests have been eaten. Belong to a school group, 4H or a garden club looking for a fund raiser? Lady Bugs and Praying Mantis make an interesting alternative to candy bars and pepperoni sticks, call for information. Lady Bugs are packed 1500 count that is enough for an average garden, half pint that is good for 3000 sqft, half gallon and gallon that is recommended to cover 1 acre.
 
Lady Bug Larva Stage
Looking somewhat like a fat alligator the Lady Bug in it's larva stage is not quite as cute as it will look as an adult and probably won't inspire someone to write nursery rhymes in it's honor. But as aggressive pest control the larva has a big appetite for aphids, mites and whitefly.
 
  Aphid Control

Description: There are approximately 4,000 aphid species found throughout the world. A common pest on many garden vegetables, fruit trees and ornamental plants, these sap-sucking insects are often noticed feeding in clusters or colonies under leaves and on new succulent shoots. Low to moderate numbers are usually not harmful, but heavy infestations may cause leaves to curl, wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth, as well as a general decline in overall plant vigor. Several species will also transmit a number of plant diseases, particularly viruses which they transmit during feeding.

Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end.

Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.

Life Cycle: In spring wingless female aphids hatch from overwintering eggs and soon give birth to many nymphs (males are not present). Young nymphs increase gradually in size and within a week give birth to many more nymphs. This process is repeated several times and results in huge population explosions. As the colony grows, a few of the females develop wings and fly off to other host plants to start new colonies. In late summer and early fall sexual forms (males and females) develop which mate and lay overwintering eggs. There are many overlapping generations per year.

Note: Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs.

Control: Pinch or prune off heavily infested leaves or other plant parts. Use the Bug Blaster or hose off plants with a strong stream of water to reduce pest numbers. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing are important natural predators. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas. Horticultural oils should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.

Tip: Do not over water or overfertilize - aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Try organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly.

Note: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects produce and will protect these pests from their natural enemies. An application of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to the stalks of roses and other woody plants will help keep ants away.
 


 


Growing Peppers

Informative Articles


Growing Peppers
 http://www.botanical-journeys-plant-guides.com/growing-peppers.html
http://userwebs.batnet.com/rwc-seed/Pepper.growing.tips.html
http://www.grow-it-organically.com/growing-peppers.html
http://www.kcet.org/socal/food/the-nosh/the-best-peppers-in-southern-california.html
http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/7244.pdf
 


Canning Fruits or Veggies

Advice From the Experts


Canning (or Freezing) Fruits or Veggies
 
http://farmgal.tripod.com/
http://pickyourown.org/allaboutcanning.htm
http://allrecipes.com/recipes/fruits-and-vegetables/canning-and-preserving/
http://gardening.about.com/od/preservingtheharvest/a/Preserving.htm
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/nutrition/DJ0516.html
http://www.mealtime.org/content.aspx?id=182
 
 


Berry Growing

Growing Berries



Fruit and Citrus Tree Growers
Citrus and Fruit Tree Growers
 
Resources - For Your Information
 
You’re invited to click the links below for comprehensive information about your specific trees and any problems you may be experiencing, or general information you may need.
 
http://www.crfg.org/
 
http://www.ocfruit.com/
 
 
 
 


Gardening "How To" Videos

Learn By Seeing and Hearing


"How To" Videos
Gain Knowledge
-see examples and steps to follow-

Making Pickles

Planting Citrus Trees

Planting and Caring for Tomatoes
 


Videos: Growing Peppers

Videos for Californians


Videos: Growing Peppers
 
http://www.ehow.com/video_4988845_grow-peppers.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kg1EQQ1WO9o
http://www.burpee.com/vegetables/peppers/all-peppers/planting-and-growing-peppers-article10700.html
http://www.growingpeppers.org/videos
http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/how-to-grow-peppers-video/51024.html


Helpful Links

Web Searches


HELPFUL LINKS
 
https://www.google.com/
 http://www.yahoo.com/

http://get.adobe.com/reader/


Sunset Western Garden Book

Western
Garden Book Goes Digital
By Holly Hayes
SJ Mercury News
Posted: 04/11/2009 12:00:00 AM PDT
 
The "Sunset Western Garden Book" has a prominent place on most gardeners' bookshelves, and for good reason: It's the respected, go-to handbook for information on plants that grow well in California's microclimates.

Now, the gardening bible is available online as a searchable guide to more than 2,500 plants (www.sunset.com/plantfinder).  And while it won't change my longtime habit of taking my well-thumbed hard copy out in the garden to dream over its more than 8,000 plant descriptions, it certainly has the potential to be a handy new tool.

The site allows you to find plants by color, size, type and growing needs such as water or sun requirements. Want to attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden? You can search for the plants they love. Do you adore cut flowers, shrubs with fragrance, autumn color? They're all in there. Looking for water-sipping plants for these times of drought? You'll find plenty. Latin-impaired? You can browse by common or botanical names.


Website Administration
Web Site Questions and Documentation
 
 
To report a broken link, submit a question, suggest new content - contact the Webmaster: 

Bob Sellards
  
 bobells04@gmail.com

 


DISCLAIMER

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All statements, actions and failures to act by any Club or Club member shall be the sole responsibility of that Club and its members. GRF does not endorse, approve or authorize such conduct, and expressly disclaims all responsibility and liability therefore, without exception.