Information on this topic:
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Garden Centers ClubOfficers and Board - 2013
Officers and Board 2013
[click the email link to send them comments or questions]
Treasurer – Ronnie Sellards
Secretary – Linda Graham
Immediate Past President - Howard Feichtmann
Newsletter – John Huber
email@example.com; firstname.lastname@example.org; email@example.com
Publicity - Pat Hedrick
Historian - Elaine Morgado
Webmaster - Bob Sellards
Spring 2013 Newsletter
GCC Newsletter-February 2012
GCC Newsletter-May 2011
GCC Newsletter-September 2011
President's Letter January 2012
President's Letter Fall 2010
President’s Message, August 2010
It’s August and you’re reaping the benefits of hard work in your gardens. Another month and we will be upgrading our soil for the fall season. Time goes by so fast. Christmas is only 4 months away.
Our Club year is also in the final stages. We have our next General Meeting on Tuesday, September 28th - the topic is “All about Composting.” It also includes worm castings. Refreshments and our free raffle are planned. October 26th will be an October Fest/Pot Luck Luncheon and we’ll have a guest speaker. Then it’s our Holiday Dinner with entertainment and dinner catered by Jolanda – Tuesday, November 30th.
So then it’s on to 2011. What topics should be planned for January and March? Do we still want our BBQ in May and June? Should we plan a bus trip? These questions and many more need to be discussed and decisions made by your Board. Who will serve on our Board next year? I know of at least two Board members who will not be on the Board next year. We have been rotating the same Club Presidents for 5 years. Our Club membership is over 250 gardeners and our Board is composed of 10 people. Surely, it is time for some new people to be on the Board, or if you want the Club to just fold and disappear, let us know. That’s always an alternative.
Now, on a different subject, we really have had a great year so far. In January, we had Gary Matsuoka, Laguna Hills Nursery, who talked on Fruit Tree Pruning. In March, Cathy Moine from Green Thumb talked on Tips and Tricks for a Healthy Garden. About 75 people from Garden Center #1 attended their BBQ in May and 125 members and guests came for the Garden Center #2 BBQ in June. Tom Siviglia, PCM Security Coordinator spoke at both BBQ. In our annual Veggie Collection Drive on July 12th and July 26th, we collected 668 lbs of produce and non-perishables for South County Outreach; this is a new record!
The Board has worked well as a team, especially on the BBQ and I am very proud of them. Also, there were many dedicated people who assisted in the setups and food handling. What you don’t ever see is the kitchen cleanup crew after the potluck and BBQ. They all deserve our very big thanks!
The Board meets at 10:00 AM the second Thursday of each month at the Historical Society Boardroom. All members are welcome.
President's Letter Spring 2010
In the Fall of 2003, about 10 gardeners met and discussed the formation of the Garden Centers Club. Subsequently, the Constitution and By-Laws were published and we got permission from the Recreation Department to form the Club.
At that time, there was considerable discussion by GRF and the Housing Mutuals about the sale of GRF land that comprised our gardens and the equestrian center. Garden Center 1 land would be senior housing, if sold. Garden Center 2 and the equestrian center would be combined for sale as a unit and would be for commercial use. There were several variations on the uses of these properties. However, your Club was formed to make sure that the gardeners would have a voice on these deliberations.
At that time, there were no waiting lists for garden plots. I started with two plots in Garden Center 1 Annex. Within two years the gardeners in three adjoining plots gave up their plots and I took them over. There were many vacant plots just begging for a gardener’s tender care; there were also fruit & citrus tree plots. Incidentally, last year I gave up two plots due to the large waiting list.
Just because we have not heard any talk about land sales recently, Laguna Woods Village still has vacant land and decisions will be made in the future that may involve our gardens. A strong Garden Centers Club will our “collective voice” and an advantage if this discussion begins again in earnest!
What a difference now in resident's interest in Garden Centers. In January 2010, the waiting list for veggie plots was 116 for Garden Center 1 and 77 for garden center 2. For tree plots, there were 35 on the waiting list for Garden Center 1 and 44 for Garden Center 2.
The long range planning group of GRF is aware of the need for Garden Center 3. The Garden Centers Club and the GRF Garden Centers Advisory Group will be your advocates in any future planning and/or changes in the gardens.
Basically, 2010 should be a great year for gardening. Even the widening of Moulton Pkwy. that affects our gardens is again delayed. Please support our Club functions and meetings and have a great gardening year!
GCC President, 2010
2012 Memberhip Application & Renewal
Dear Fellow Gardener and non-gardening LWV residents:
Be a Garden Centers Club member in 2012. Our activities provide the only forum for gardeners to meet, discuss problems, socialize and – through our meetings and expert guest speakers - help each other increase gardening knowledge or improve skills.
Please Consider why you should become or remain a member:
- Informative gardening programs at CH #7 featuring speakers and presentations, often with luncheons.
- Meet with your fellow gardeners and exchange useful information.
- Free BBQ - for members - in May or June.
- Newsletters written with you in mind; full of information you can use!
- An Advisory Group – GCAG. This group manages formal communication to GRF of our goals, concerns and issues, and interests.
Please Join or Renew. Detach and Send this application and your check.
GARDEN CENTERS CLUB
2012 Membership Application
Telephone: (949) _______________________
Garden Center 1 or 2 ______
[ #1 - by the Golf Course, along Moulton; #2 - on Campo Verdi, behind Stables]
Plot # ____________
Annual Dues: January 1 to December 31 - Individual - $15.00 Family - $20.00
Make your check payable to: Garden Centers Club, and send to -
152 Avenida Majorca, Unit C
Laguna Woods, CA 92637
Garden Centers Club - FAQs
Garden Centers Club
-FACT SHEET and FAQs-
Q – How many gardens are there? -how big are the gardens?
A –The Garden Centers are GRF property and presently over 8 acres in size. There are 868 vegetable gardens in two Centers. A veggie plot is 10’ X 20’. In addition there are over 250 fruit and citrus tree plots.
Q - Where are the Garden Centers?
A – GC 1 is to the right of Moulton, North of El Toro near the intersection of Santa Maria Rd., adjacent to the golf course. GC 2 is to the right of Moulton, South of El Toro just off Campo Verde Drive., just opposite the Von’s shopping Center. The PCM Garden Coordinator’s office (Mike Tucholski) is on this site – Tel. 597-4322.
Q – What is the cost?
A – Veggie plots rent for $26.00 annually; a tree plot is $12.00; a shade house bench is $8.00
Q – How does one obtain a garden plot?
A - You should contact PCM’s Garden Centers Coordinator. He is Mike Tucholski; he can be reached at: 597-4322; Cell # 949-633-3394
Q - What can people grow in their garden?
A – Orange County gardeners are very fortunate; we can grow a wide range of veggies, fruits and citrus crops, year around. Local nurseries, fellow gardeners and numerous web sites are a good source of info.
Q – Do I have to provide everything that a garden & gardener normally requires?
A – GRF provides gardening tools, carts and wheelbarrows, water and mulch. Gardeners select and buy their own seedlings, plants, etc. They may choose to purchase additional tools or equipment, a hose, etc.
Q – Who maintains the Garden Centers?
A - The PCM Garden Centers Coordinator oversees the two Centers. Each gardener has complete responsibility for establishing, growing and maintaining his/her garden, fences and surrounding pathways.
Q – a) What is the GCC all about; b) what do you do; c) why should I become a member; d) do I have to become a member to get a garden???
A – a, b, c) the primary benefits are listed at the top of our application form; d) any LW Village resident can obtain a garden plot…Club membership isn’t required by GRF.
Q - Where can I get help or advice? – I’m not very experienced and have only done a little gardening in recent years.
A – See next question ~
Q – Does the Club have a Web Site? -a Newsletter? –a list to enable me to contact experts and Master Gardeners?
A – 1) Yes; www.lagunawoodsvillage.com; [see Clubs & Club Web Pages – Clubs: A to J]; 2) Yes – 3 times per year; 3) a large number of references are on the Club web page -“Information and News For You”
Q – What are the dues? Where do I get an application? When/Where do you meet?
A – application forms can be found in boxes in both Garden Centers; you can also call Membership Chairperson Bob Sellards and it will be emailed to you. Dues: $15./$20. We meet 7 times a year at CH 7
Q – When is your next meeting? - are guests allowed to attend?
A – Our Annual FREE BBQ -for Members - is May 25th @ 11:30, CH 7. Guests are always welcome!
Avoiding Chemicals, Poisons and Proper Pest Control
Orange County Farmer’s Markets
Information and News
Tools of Our Trade
If you don't already have these saved as "Favorites", or "Bookmarks" - now is a great time to do so. Just click on the link to view the page - click on Favorites, then on Add to Favorites. [same steps for those using Firefox, or other browsers] Now you have a permanent quick-lookup reference.
Orange Country Register Columnist - Cindy McNatt & Others
McNatt's Archived Columns
Get Expert Advice; Ask A Question
Growing, Feeding, Care, Recipes
NOTHING BEATS HOME GROWN TOMATOES!
Ask any gardener, young or old, new to gardening or the Old Pro what their most anticipated planting priority is in their garden - you guessed it...about 90% are going to reply enthusiastically - without hesitation - TOMATOES!
This series of pages and the numerous WWW links will give both seasoned pros and the newer gardener a wealth of information.
Feel free to copy for your gardening binder and make notes about the success, or lack of with not only types of tomatoes, but the preparation, care and feeding you gave your plants this year - and each year.
Description: Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you'll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle: Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Control: Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water. Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps, and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Both Dipel Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (spinosad) are very effective, especially on young caterpillars (larvae). If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with botanical insecticides. Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
Note: If you have caterpillars that have parasitic wasp cocoons attached to them, don't destroy them! Collect them instead and allow them to eat unwanted or volunteer tomatoes until the wasps hatch inside. Now you've got an army of free, natural predators to work for you.
Target pests: Aphids, whitefly, fruitworm, mites
Are you experiencing Lady Bug problems?
Click on the following link for expanded information:
Commonly referred to as Lady Bugs these helpful critters are not bugs at all, they are beetles and their correct name is The Ladybird Beetle. There are about 400 different types of Lady Bugs in the Coccinellidae family in North America and about 4,000 species worldwide. The most common beneficial species in North America is the Convergent Lady Beetle.
All Lady Bugs have similar life cycles. Eggs are laid in the spring. When hatched the larvae will feed for several weeks and pupate into adults. The adults feed through the fall, then either lay eggs and die or hibernate over the winter, waking in the spring to feed and lay eggs.
Lady Bugs are the most widely used and best known form of biological pest control. Famous for their control of aphids, Lady Bugs will also consume large numbers of whitefly, mealybugs, scales, mites and many other soft bodied insects as well as bollworm, broccoli worm, cabbage moth and tomato hornworm. Lady Bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in it's lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in garden and greenhouse settings.
One common complaint against the Lady Bug is that once released they will fly off to the neighbors house down the street while aphids have their way with your roses and tomato plants. The truth is that once released a portion will fly off and that once the aphids are consumed another portion will fly off looking for food. But there are a few things that you can do to get your Lady Bugs to stay. First, always release Lady Bugs in the evening, they will not fly at night and are not as active when it's cooler. Another trick is to mix water & regular soda pop (50/50) and spray it on the Lady Bugs just prior to release. The sugar in the soda will cause the Lady Bugs wings to stick together for a few days so they can not fly away. In this time the females should start laying their eggs in your garden, Lady Bugs are very territorial, Lady Bugs that hatch in your garden will call it home. We also offer Bug Blend, a flowering seed mix that will provide both a natural habitat and the pollen and nectar beneficials require to reproduce, and Lady Bug Breakfast a supplemental food source to feed your Lady Bugs when the pests have been eaten. Belong to a school group, 4H or a garden club looking for a fund raiser? Lady Bugs and Praying Mantis make an interesting alternative to candy bars and pepperoni sticks, call for information. Lady Bugs are packed 1500 count that is enough for an average garden, half pint that is good for 3000 sqft, half gallon and gallon that is recommended to cover 1 acre.
Lady Bug Larva Stage
Looking somewhat like a fat alligator the Lady Bug in it's larva stage is not quite as cute as it will look as an adult and probably won't inspire someone to write nursery rhymes in it's honor. But as aggressive pest control the larva has a big appetite for aphids, mites and whitefly.
Description: There are approximately 4,000 aphid species found throughout the world. A common pest on many garden vegetables, fruit trees and ornamental plants, these sap-sucking insects are often noticed feeding in clusters or colonies under leaves and on new succulent shoots. Low to moderate numbers are usually not harmful, but heavy infestations may cause leaves to curl, wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth, as well as a general decline in overall plant vigor. Several species will also transmit a number of plant diseases, particularly viruses which they transmit during feeding.
Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end.
Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.
Life Cycle: In spring wingless female aphids hatch from overwintering eggs and soon give birth to many nymphs (males are not present). Young nymphs increase gradually in size and within a week give birth to many more nymphs. This process is repeated several times and results in huge population explosions. As the colony grows, a few of the females develop wings and fly off to other host plants to start new colonies. In late summer and early fall sexual forms (males and females) develop which mate and lay overwintering eggs. There are many overlapping generations per year.
Note: Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs.
Control: Pinch or prune off heavily infested leaves or other plant parts. Use the Bug Blaster or hose off plants with a strong stream of water to reduce pest numbers. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing are important natural predators. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Insecticidal soap or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas. Horticultural oils should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Tip: Do not over water or overfertilize - aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Try organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly.
Note: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects produce and will protect these pests from their natural enemies. An application of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to the stalks of roses and other woody plants will help keep ants away.
Canning Fruits or Veggies
Advice From the Experts
Fruit and Citrus Tree Growers
Gardening "How To" Videos
Learn By Seeing and Hearing
Planting Citrus Trees
Planting and Caring for Tomatoes
http://vimeo.com/10684439 (Master Gardener Series)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SkS1F00mn4 (Master Gardener)
Videos: Growing Peppers
Videos for Californians
Sunset Western Garden Book
Western Garden Book Goes Digital
Bob Sellards firstname.lastname@example.org
The information, opinions and all other content on Club webpages are solely the responsibility of the particular Club. Neither GRF nor the managing agent is responsible for the accuracy or content of information on Club webpages, and all responsibility therefore is hereby denied.
All statements, actions and failures to act by any Club or Club member shall be the sole responsibility of that Club and its members. GRF does not endorse, approve or authorize such conduct, and expressly disclaims all responsibility and liability therefore, without exception.